March '22
Kingdom Of Seven Sisters Of The North Eastern India
In search of the mystical Northeastern lands, I set my course towards the expansive landscapes of Nagaland. With its northern borders stretching against the backdrop of rolling mountains and its southern reaches delving deep into the secluded wilderness of Assam, the Meghalayan clouds cascading from the serene heights, I found myself amidst the enchanting realm of the Seven Sisters.
Mounted on my trusty mountain bike, I embarked on a journey along the never-ending trails and pathways that meandered through the breathtaking expanse of this otherworldly terrain. I witnessed the diversity of the local populace, heard the symphony of unique languages, and rested under the shimmering azure sky, often getting lost in its cerulean embrace.
The allure of the Earth and nature has always captivated me irresistibly. The indomitable spirit of exploration that once drove explorers like Ferdinand Magellan, Francis Drake, Marco Polo, and the adventurous fantasies of Robinson Crusoe and Allan Quatermain, now courses through my veins.
My desire is to perceive the world from a distance, to attain its revelations at a leisurely pace. My love for my homeland is profound, and I refuse to harm it even in exchange for a lifetime free of all sorrows. Though I'm well aware of the contradictions of modern society and how it's affecting the planet, the efforts to save the Earth have often given way to contradictory lifestyles and humorous endeavors.
My method of travel is leisurely, my mode of transportation doesn't burn any fossil fuels, as my physical well-being is paramount. My vehicle requires no fuel, as the atmosphere in which it navigates doesn't offer much resistance. It doesn't create any sonic disturbances in the tranquil air, as it doesn't require any propulsion beyond my own energy. It occupies a mere square meter of space, allowing me to find a place on the roads of Dhaka with ease. A bicycle capable of speeds exceeding 10 miles per hour is my trusty steed, and I have an immense affection for it. At the signal of the victory monument in Sylhet, I stand still, gazing towards my destination, recalling countless shared memories with it.
Taking my leisurely mode of transportation to distant places, I've ventured across the countryside, seashores, ports, forests, and mountains of Bangladesh. These countless treasured memories, woven into my life, are something I can't express properly any day. How these thoughts get lost in the expanse! I can only close my eyes and reminisce about my past two years at university and the four-month semester, and I've let these moments fly away, immersed in their vastness.
Engaging in my beloved hobby, I would deck out my cherished bicycle and envision expanding my horizons. After much effort and struggle, I had realized the truth. Having gathered sufficient equipment, convenient electronics, and a certain amount of currency, I embarked on my first international journey in August, crossing the borders of Tamabil in Sylhet, Bangladesh, and Dawki in Meghalaya, India. A limited space and the fascination of the hobby were what I sought. There was tremendous self-assurance at that time.
However, there's a slight misperception. The excitement didn't die out even after reaching India and cycling through Assam. But what was at a low ebb was my spirits, as I couldn't talk to my parents for three days. It wasn't more than six hours even during my entire lifetime. So, that evening, when I arrived at a police checkpoint amidst the thick woods of Meghalaya-Assam border, I told them, "I've heard so much about Assam's elephants that I don't dare to camp. Can you offer me a small space in your compound?" In response, they sincerely arranged a comfortable little room with a stunning bathroom, informing me that everything would close in the evening. However, from a spot two yards away, a Khasi young woman resided with her daughter. She sold rice and chicken, and I immediately called my father, exclaiming, "Dad, who? Anik?" My heart swelled with an extraordinary sense of tranquility.
This tranquility is an emotion that brings an azure sky's sunshine amidst storm clouds. When I took a break from my phone and looked around, when I absorbed the surroundings, this serenity inundated me like the fiery rays of a sunset. When I roamed around my surroundings, I felt like a matchstick that had ignited for the first time. The matchstick was lit, and the adventure began. I have laughed and celebrated excessively this time. Excessively! A lot!
I've never felt happier than that night. I've never felt more content than I did at that moment. Engaging with people who shared the familiar surroundings, going to the dense forest of Assam, conversing in an unknown language, breaking into a smile in Hindustani while conversing with obliging sellers of dal and chicken, and exchanging food with the mother-daughter duo who resided near the police checkpoint—this incident will always remain close to my heart.
In conclusion, this experience has made me happier than that particular night. I've never felt more content in my life. In the presence of the charming environment that surrounded me, I journeyed to Assam's secluded woods, embraced by the soothing melodies of rivers and chirping birds, conversing with locals in unfamiliar tongues, and the vastness of the Meghalaya-Assam border's serene ambience seeping into my very being.
As I reminisce about the enchanting landscapes of the Northeastern paradise, I'm filled with a sense of tranquility that's akin to the sun breaking through the clouds after a heavy rain. Stepping away from my phone and observing the world around me, this inner peace envelops me, much like the radiant warmth of a sunrise. And just like that, a matchstick was lit. And so, the journey began. Excessive laughter and joy became my companions on this adventure, and I was overwhelmed by an inexplicable abundance of happiness.
On the first day in Assam, I had a memorable encounter with a ferryman who was paddling his boat across the river. I chose to ride my bicycle alongside him. By the end of the day, I had the opportunity to meet a local named Lanka, who I had heard about earlier. He recognized me as a Bangladeshi from my attire and started a conversation in Bengali. This young man from Kolkata left a deep impression on me, not just for his friendly demeanor, but also for his ability to share stories of happiness even amidst financial struggles. He recounted tales of his queen and princess with immense pride. He made me ponder how much money a person truly needs to be content. His worn-out attire and his infectious smile were the symbols of a life filled with hidden joys, something that a casual observer might not immediately notice, but if someone took the time to look closely, they would realize.
"Welcome to Dimapur, Nagaland!" This beautifully written sign greeted me at the main entrance of the biggest city in Nagaland. The charm of this moment struck me deeply; it's not often that you find such a well-crafted welcome sign in a major city's main entrance. Just before reaching the Dimapur gate, there's a bustling Naga market. In the midst of its lively atmosphere, I stopped to buy betel nut, a common local chewable. People stared in surprise as I joined the activity. It was in that market that I had my first taste of panipuri, a tangy street food. The experience was memorable, and I found myself immersed in the local culture.
Traveling in Nagaland meant tackling a challenging 58-kilometer uphill journey to reach the state capital, Kohima. Fortunately, road expansion work had begun before my journey, making the route a bit easier. The journey was filled with intense dust storms that I had to endure, and I arrived in Kohima feeling weary. The cold in Kohima was almost unbearable; this is worth mentioning before anything else. The locals there believe in eating Naga cuisine, which includes various types of snake meat. However, I refrained from trying it, preferring to stick to safer choices.
Spending eight days in Nagaland left me with incredible memories. The warmth and kindness of the people were extraordinary. The Naga children were especially adorable, with their unique ways of speaking and their mature behavior. Whenever I would dismount my bicycle to push it uphill through a bazaar, the locals would often encourage me with words like, "Safe journey!" If I happened to walk past those uphill-bound vehicles, people would reach out for a handshake, a pat on the back, or offer a word of praise. Vehicles coming downhill from the opposite direction would sometimes slow down, knocking on the window to show their appreciation.
The small markets in Nagaland were visually captivating. Tables lined with local fruits and vegetables were displayed on both sides of the roads, creating a colorful spectacle. Among the fruits, pineapples were the most common. They were neatly arranged, priced at around 15 to 20 rupees each. I remember having a pineapple for lunch during my journey from Kohima to Wokha. I couldn't finish it, and the shopkeeper kindly packed the remaining slices in a polythene bag. That night, I found myself in a situation where there was no food available. A friendly shop owner helped me out by offering a few biscuits and a pack of instant noodles. The situation was emblematic of the warmth and generosity I experienced throughout Nagaland.
Writing about those times doesn't capture the full essence of the experience. Every day was new and unique, just like that one day. I spent my days cycling through the mountains from 8 AM to 12 PM, which were the most challenging hours. The uphill journey was made tougher by the scorching sun. When I would find a small hut to rest and have lunch, everything would change as soon as I stepped outside. The magic of the sun disappearing, the cool breeze taking its place—these transformations were captivating.
The bicycles in Nagaland were remarkable. Sometimes, I couldn't bring myself to ride uphill. I would suddenly stop and walk. My legs would feel weak, as if there was no strength left in them. Then I would sit on the roadside, take a moment to rest, and eventually lie down. When I got up again, my vision would be different. If I saw something incredibly beautiful, my heart would react in a unique way that I couldn't quite fathom. There was no explanation for this reaction.
In the emerald green mountains, the most valuable treasures are its waterfalls! Amidst the summery ranges, these waterfalls become the saviors and healers of the mountain bikers. How many times have these cascades saved my life! The locals ingeniously divide the waterfalls into two parts using bamboo fences. This clever technique creates a larger pool of water at one spot, allowing weary travelers like me to refresh themselves. As the day ends, my favorite activity was to fetch a towel from my bag and wrap it around my waist, then immerse myself in the cool waters of a frozen waterfall. The world's finest shower! The epitome of rejuvenation!
One of my most thrilling nights was in Chantangia, a breathtaking small town nestled within the heart of a circular mountain. Lost in the darkness, I struggled to find my way. Suddenly, a signboard emerged, indicating the Chantangia Police Station. Almost unable to see, I stumbled upon a narrow path lined with stone slabs, leading upward. The path seemed to continue from the road, leading me to a colorful building in the distance. It was a circular structure, ingeniously crafted to match the curvature of the mountain. Surrounding it were fields, and beyond them, the town of Chantangia. Below. A high-powered binoculars were strategically positioned on one side of the circular building, offering a vantage point to observe every alley in the town. Yet, the station itself was empty. To my surprise, a dog greeted me with a curious gaze. Amazed and uncertain of my next step, I noticed a path that descended next to the circular structure. Following it, I reached a small house nestled beside a cave, not far from a waterfall. There, I met the police chief of Chantangia, Mr. Anugami. He had just wrapped up his day's work and was enjoying a leisurely evening with his subordinates. With a hearty laugh, he said, "Ah, I saw you today in the market, resembling the snowman Mongsengimti! Riding your bicycle! Come, come! Do you want to spend the night here? How about a brief chat before bedtime?"
Mr. Anugami assigned his assistant to prepare dinner for both of us. Being a vegetarian, he replaced the pork with chicken and we embarked on a conversation within the walls of his study. "How old are you?" he asked with a chuckle. After hearing my response, he continued, "Surely around twenty-four? Married, perhaps?" "No," I replied. "Ah, that's the age, right? At twenty-four and single! Going from one place to another, always on the move! It's not easy to stay still, right?" We laughed heartily!
In his house, he served a delicious dinner, a fusion of Indian and Naga cuisine. We enjoyed our meal while exchanging stories and anecdotes. Later that night, I lay beneath the stars on the rooftop of the circular building, listening to the melodious night sounds while reading a book. The sky was adorned with billions of stars, a sight I had never witnessed before.
Continuing my journey, I eventually reached my destination. As I entered the city, a sense of unease settled within me. This was a different kind of unease, the kind that my mind craved to experience repeatedly. My mental landscape shifted, and with it, a feeling of melancholy took over. My goal was Longwa, a remote village located on the northeastern border of India, a place I had first heard about in the 1970s.
Longwa lies on the border between India and Myanmar, surrounded by the vast expanses of the sky-touching mountains. Once, a Naga from Longwa had beheaded the last person in the world during the 1970s. His body was adorned with distinct tattoos, symbolizing his ancestry, and he wore elongated earlobes with wooden plugs, unique to those who could carry out headhunting.
Today, they are more civilized. Some Naga people from Longwa sell a few of these distinctive items as cultural artifacts. The village is split between India and Burma, living in both countries. No government claims authority over this territory, at least not in a significant way. The true ruler is their Angh, their king. The Angh has constructed his own house, precisely bisecting it into halves—one in India and the other in Myanmar.
Longwa's people take care of the international border at the end of the 20th century. The village spans across India and Myanmar, with some border guards and checkposts by underground organizations at the peripheries, detaining people from neighboring countries occasionally. The villagers have an age-old practice of kidnapping as well.
Before Longwa, there is an astonishingly beautiful place known as Forever Rain Point. It rains almost incessantly there during the monsoon, creating a surreal experience. Walking through clouds, I felt as though I was ascending from the earth to the heavens.
On the way to Longwa, after a challenging six-kilometer uphill journey, my body ached, and my bicycle, my beloved companion, was wet and glistening. Facing an immensely steep gorge, I got off the bicycle and began pulling it up the narrow stone path. Near a slippery rock path, I decided to take a momentary break, sitting on a boulder, under a steady drizzle that blurred my vision. With a soggy shoe and teeth chattering, I took a bite of a samosa, finding a bit of comfort in my struggles. The rainwater seeped through my shoes, my teeth chattered in the cold, and the wind howled softly in my ears. In that moment, I realized this was my first true adventure in life. At the same time, it felt like I had given up. I laughed out loud, taking the samosa out of my mouth, experiencing both sensations at once. The sight was truly extraordinary. But no one was there to witness it with me at that moment.
I spent the night In a quaint escapade to the heart of Ang's home! Yes, in the ethereal Longwa, anyone can spend a night at Ang's residence, be it on a bed, or on the floor if space runs out. His house is colossal, accommodating up to seventy people comfortably. The main door opens into a square chamber resembling a courtyard. In the walls surrounding this chamber, the artifacts and arms of the erstwhile Naga warriors are displayed, preserving a history now lost. Through another door parallel to the main entrance, a corridor leads deeper into the house. Along the corridor are rooms. The exact count of these rooms eludes memory now. From the corridor, a door similar to the main one opens into a vacant chamber, much like the previous one, but at the center of this room lies a grand fireplace. A hearth where hearty meals were prepared throughout the day. That evening, amid the chilling cold, a feast of various delectable vegetables, fried eggs, and cooked green papaya had been set for me after stating that pork wouldn't be served. A vivid memory etched in my mind.
Ang's residence in Myanmar's Mayanmar province is extraordinary. The mountains in the backdrop appear so tall that their peaks are obscured by the clouds. The vertical terrain seems more like mountains than hills. Beneath these mountains, an intricate labyrinth of pathways snakes its way. Amid the thickets, wild serpents slither away, and colorful birds flutter through the underbrush. The journey to Longwa brings me across a Bengali friend who suggests I spend a night at his house in the city. "My brother and I will prepare dinner together, and you'll have a taste of Naga cuisine. Come along!" His words echoed in my ears throughout my journey to Longwa. Many days later, the Bengali feast remained only an imaginative notion, as the bumpy, 42-kilometer long Longwa-Mon road led me to the summit.
On that day, the second phase of my journey commenced. Every part of Assam felt incredibly diverse. It's a state with a myriad of stories, where every individual is a tale waiting to be heard. The incredible diversity of Assam gripped me as I traversed its land.
On the first day, I had spent the night alongside friendly locals in a mosque named Sonari in the Shivsagar district. The memory of that mosque would forever remain etched in my heart. A two-story building with a terrace, the ground floor of the mosque was reserved for the belief in an unbelievable folk story. When my face faced the Qibla during prayer, rain poured outside. What rain it was! Praying in an environment that felt heavenly, I found an indescribable satisfaction in completing the prayer, and raindrops came like a blessing. Rain cascaded outside while I concluded the prayer. With heartfelt sincerity, the locals offered words of praise, and I, feeling bashful, joked, "Your child must eat a lot of momos, Shyamko!" Chuckling, they responded, "He must've enjoyed them a lot, as he's been asking for more." A candid laugh followed, as they chatted about my journey.
And the most striking thing about that boy was his voice, so much like that of a cinematic hero! The way he spoke was so fascinating! My eyes grew wide as he said, "Could you accompany me to my cell? I'll create a short video clip with you!" The boy's room was a charming space near the mosque. There, he positioned me in a chair, set up his front camera, leaned against my head from behind, and smilingly said, "Alright, let's talk about Assam and India!"
Later, he took me to explore the restaurants in Sonari. He draped his jacket around me, protecting me from the rain. What a night it was! Then one of Murubbi's friends spoke, "Give us your jacket; I'm taking him with me." In that rainy night, walking through the mosque's vicinity, the boy guided me through a maze of locals, finally leading me to an open restaurant. Underneath the rain, he took me to a last, open restaurant where I enjoyed rice, vegetables, and fish before he headed home. I was to return his jacket to him in the morning, so I begrudgingly rose from sleep.
Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures with that boy, nor did I ask his name. My younger sister had a great admiration for the famous M.S. Dhoni, and she had her reasons for disliking such dimwitted individuals.
The landscape of Assam is quite reminiscent of Bangladesh. In every direction, you can see hill ranges standing tall, whether it's in Arunachal, Nagaland, Meghalaya, or Assam itself. I remember the day I left Sonari and headed eastwards, encountering a challenging highway journey. Alongside my cycling adventure, I faced fierce headwinds that seemed to drain my energy. After fifteen days of cycling, I felt a slight sense of accomplishment in my legs.
As I arrived in Jorhat, one of Assam's major cities, memories of the past day flooded my mind. I had been searching for a mosque the previous night and found a remarkable one with a profound impact. In the city of Jorhat, I even playfully caught a Hindu cyclist named Angkul before reaching the city, and he led me to a mosque. After performing ablutions and joining the Maghrib prayer, I engaged in a conversation with the imam. It was during this exchange that I was introduced to the mosque's unique way of spending the night.
Small events like these have a profound impact on people's lives. It was fate that led me to encounter the fascinating characters of that day. Without that encounter, would I ever have witnessed such extraordinary people?
The mosque's muezzin in Jorhat had advised me to leave my bicycle inside the mosque and explore the city on foot. He showed me to the mosque's address, where I continued my journey by foot through the city. I remember buying a mobile phone charger for a surprisingly high price and indulging in a meal of buffalo meat and rice. The generosity and warmth of the people left a deep impression on me, making the experience all the more memorable.
The following day, after the Fajr prayer, the people in Jorhat seemed to recognize me and greeted me warmly. An uncle even called out, inviting me to his house to meet a visitor from Dhaka. He introduced me to the people around, creating an atmosphere of camaraderie and hospitality. As I bid them farewell, they promised that I would always be welcome in their homes. Although they challenged me to return within ten days, I knew it might not be possible.
Returning to the mosque, I found solace in a book, letting the memories of Assam's encounters and landscapes wash over me. The stories of Assam's people resonated deeply, staying with me as I journeyed forward.
In the rural regions of Assam, 80% of school children, both boys and girls, travel to their classes on bicycles. Those without bicycles often hitch a ride with their friends by clinging onto the back. For those who can't ride bicycles, mothers provide a solution by placing a plastic chair on the back of their own bicycles, allowing their children to travel comfortably.
The roads of Assam belong to a unique ruler—the cow. Literally, cows rule the roads. They confidently sit in the middle of the road, completely aware that no one will disturb them. But what struck me as a secret was the lush grassland beside the road, the shade of trees, or the serene patches of earth that cows seem to have chosen for their lounging spots. While people are busy claiming the road, I couldn't help but wonder if these peaceful places were actually meant for the sacred purpose of meditation.
In schools and colleges, girls wear sarees as uniforms, a tradition that signifies elegance. This small yet striking detail is hard to put into words—it's an expression of beauty in unity. Seeing girls wearing the same saree day after day without complaints truly amazed me.
Teenage boys in Assam confidently ride motorcycles, while girls prefer scooters. The sight of a girl balancing herself on a scooter with an umbrella held up to shield herself from the rain is a common one. It's as if they've mastered the art of maneuvering in Assam's rainy weather. And let's not forget that some of these girls are carrying the legacy of their mothers' graceful scooter rides in their hearts, maintaining their own style and pace.
These are just a few glimpses of Assam's charm. It's a place where every corner has a story to tell, a journey to unfold, and characters who leave an indelible mark on your heart.
Trouble brewed between the Bengalis and the Assamese. The Assamese folks had crossed the border, convinced they were blending in as Bangladeshis. Little did they fathom that I, too, possessed a passport! Owning a passport was like a mystical enchantment, a heavenly wonder! And visas, they were a distant concept for many. Numerous souls hadn't even caught wind of its name. There's a market in Nagao district known as Balika Bazaar. I stood there, camera in hand, poised to capture the signboard's essence. An uncle then approached me, saying he hailed from Bangladesh, and did that mean the police would apprehend me? I had quite a spat with this uncle, a heated argument. However, as fate would have it, we eventually found ourselves seated side by side, sharing rasgolla and singara. Sometimes, it's best to let laughter fill the gaps where words fall short.
Kaziranga National Park in Central Assam is a true marvel. Within its vast 430 square kilometers roam 2,400 Asian rhinos, 1,148 eastern swamp deer, 1,937 water buffaloes, 111 Bengal tigers, 1,088 elephants, and an array of bird species, including the distinguished storks. This wild expanse sits along the Brahmaputra, a living testament to nature's grandeur. Indian National Highway 37 traverses a stretch of 36 km within this park. I took that route, determined to spot everyone except for the elusive tiger uncle. If only I had caught a glimpse of him, my tale would've taken a different turn.
Upon reaching Gohati, the capital of Assam, I was welcomed by a lush green city. Its charm was undeniable, a respite from the ordinary. During my time in Assam, I indulged my taste buds to the fullest! With unrestrained pleasure, I savored panipuri, chicken momos, ice cream, mango juice, lachi, and the delectable butter chicken thali. The mere mention of each dish stirs a unique emotion!
Approximately three weeks after leaving my home, I found myself back in the embrace of Meghalaya. The homecoming was filled with cheer, raindrops kissing my forehead. Rain – a delight that tickles my heart. And I have a fondness for rain's chilly embrace. The first day I ascended the hills of Meghalaya, the sun beat down fervently. Meghalaya had already become dear to me.
I set up camp within the yard of Nongpoh Police Station. What a captivating scene! The city was beautiful beyond words, a fusion of nature's elegance and human craftsmanship.
Meghalaya had yet to unveil its secrets. The state boasted the most exquisite roads, showcasing impeccable engineering skills. Consequently, navigating the high mountain roads on my bicycle proved to be a manageable task. A small, charming private car gracefully traversed the streets of Meghalaya, resembling a picture brought to life. Among the people of the three Indian states I mingled with, the Khasias held a special place in my heart. A Khasia gentleman, with utmost care, assisted me in acquiring a SIM card. Not to discount the plethora of other beautiful encounters, I'll save the rest for another time, focusing on the final day of my journey.
On the second-to-last day, rain heavily drenched my head as I crossed Shillong, Meghalaya's capital. My subconscious wished to avoid spending the night in such a bustling city. After days immersed in solitude, the cacophony of Shillong's streets began to grate on my nerves. Despite my thoughts, I pressed on past Shillong, pondering where I would find shelter amidst the storm. One by one, as I crossed Mylem and Lightlingcott, the realization struck that evening would soon envelop me, and still, I hadn't secured a place to stay. The road from the Bangladesh border to Shillong was under construction – Lightlingcott served as a checkpoint. Here, 98% of the path led downhill towards Bangladesh, while 80% sloped downward towards Shillong. This was the pinnacle, the threshold.
Meghalaya harbored a sense of vengeance. On the first day, as I toiled uphill under the sun, covering 40 km, I berated the hills. I declared that I'd see how tough they'd be the next day. "You're throwing all this at me now? Don't worry, I'll make up for it with a 40 km downhill ride!" The challenge lingered in my thoughts. Thus, on my return journey, the hills showcased a different face to me. I had never witnessed such heavy clouds, rain, storms, and biting cold.
The absence of windshield wipers rendered downhill travel nearly impossible. The experience was surreal. Upon reaching Lightlingcott's summit, I was greeted by an eerie, foreboding mist!
Even before nightfall, an otherworldly gloom descended upon the landscape. Seeking refuge in a roadside Chinese eatery, I savored washed noodles, soup, and momos. Back on the road, I was hit with an intense cold. Did you ever see a chicken shivering in the yard during a winter tempest? Then you can envision my predicament.
Yet, shelter still eluded me. I resolved to cover the remaining 35 kilometers to the Bangladesh border that evening. What a whimsical decision it turned out to be! Twenty minutes later, I realized my folly. A stream of cargo trucks clogged the way. Truck drivers, oblivious to my presence, barely noticed a cyclist struggling against the elements on the left side of the road. A few trucks whizzed by me at the last possible moment. I couldn't even discern my location on the map! Torrential drops lashed at my face, my glasses did little to shield me. Descending the hills of Meghalaya, my bicycle reached speeds of 50 km per hour. In that moment, it felt like the second great adventure of my life.
Suddenly, a glimmer of lights caught my attention by the roadside. It hinted at some form of existence nearby. Gradually, it dawned on me that I was passing through a city. The realization struck – this was Priunshla city. And yes, I recalled there was a police station in this town! At that moment, I couldn't have been happier; it felt like the entire world had conspired to bring me relief.
Had I not found the ideal spot for my tent, the cold could have easily overwhelmed me. Although rooms weren't available at the police station, the in-charge mentioned a nearby homestay.
"Could you give me an idea of the cost?" I inquired.
"Perhaps around fifteen hundred," he replied.
With a mere 900 rupees left, I hadn't eaten the night before, and breakfast was still a necessity. The border with Bangladesh was a mere 30 km away. Outside, the sky bellowed with thunderous cries. I recounted the ordeal I had faced to him, a bit flustered.
He handed me an umbrella and motioned for me to follow. We reached the homestay, where a conversation unfolded between him and the owner in the Khasia language.
In the end, I secured a room in the delightful Rajsik homestay for a mere 600 rupees. A young lad from the Chokra group directed me to the shower's hot water switch, highlighted the television boasting 900 channels, and informed me that a Bangladesh-Zimbabwe cricket match was airing on one of them. The young Afif even lent me his belt! The cozy room featured a comfortable bed draped in a heavy sheet, its pillows offering ample support. While adjusting the pillow, I discovered a 500 rupee note. Not only did the police officer reduce the homestay's rent by 900 rupees, but he also left behind this note. Such sincerity from a Khasia on that stormy night was remarkable – an act of kindness toward a complete stranger.
That evening, I dined at a costly restaurant in Priunshla Bazaar. The shop attendant engaged in lively conversation with me throughout. Outside, the storm's roar grew louder. An unimaginable surge of contentment filled my mind. I was nearly home! The warmth of this chilly night was a precursor to my imminent return to Bangladesh.
What lay ahead in Bangladesh? Three weeks of playing FIFA with a cousin, a trip to Manpura Island with my trusty tabuta, relishing the faludata at the market, savoring host beef in Chittagong, and taking in the mesmerizing flow of the Padma river. Oh, and how could I forget Kandiwali? I hadn't been able to gift that Rajnigandha to the Khasia girl. Even if I had purchased it, circumstances prevented me from presenting it to her. On their return day, her small shop had been shuttered due to the storm.
As I set foot in Bangladesh, a wave of happiness enveloped me. Everyone conversed in beautiful Bengali, as if the sweetness of the Sundarbans was pouring forth. I, too, began engaging with everyone in Bengali, regardless of necessity. The sun bathed everything in a familiar glow, and the scent in the air carried comforting familiarity. But after this reflection, I reached a tea garden next to the Jaflong Bridge in Bangladesh. I extended my arms and legs, settling down to watch the cows graze. A sense of tranquility washed over me. Meghalaya was a distant vision on the horizon, its proud mountains standing and offering a knowing smile. The abode of clouds had gifted me countless beautiful moments.
My journey concluded with a bus ride to Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh. The following morning, I found myself in my university class. One day encapsulated crossing the calm airs of Meghalaya, traversing an international border on a mountain bike after 30 km, exploring Jaflong bazaar and tea gardens, enduring a 300 km bus ride, cycling another 20 km, and reconnecting with my daily life – attending university, engaging in enlightening lectures, taking diligent notes, sharing deep conversations with friends, engaging in 7 FIFA matches with my cousin, watching a movie with my younger sister, and finally, nestling into my own bed. It was quite the day, indeed!
What you've read here is but a snippet of the experiences of a deeply introverted young man on a 22-day bikepacking adventure. Traveling abroad offers the unique opportunity to directly engage with diverse cultures, perspectives, religions, and philosophies. It's a chance to analyze and absorb the individual, a chance I take personally – avoiding generalizations. For me, there's no greater joy. With a limited span on this beautiful planet, it seems my duty to know and appreciate each of the Creator's creations, their histories, and the lives that preceded them, before my time is up. After years on Earth, if I can't gather the ability to share tales that widen the eyes of dreamy children in my old age, then what sort of life have I lived? And stories – they're everywhere. Every person walking, every bird soaring, every wave caressing the shore, every selfless gesture, every ink stroke on the moon's canvas, every gentle breath – each is an irresistible story.